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27 Miles

Category Personal Health Travel News and Events

A few weeks ago I had one of the most relaxing days of my life.

Bike Route

If you haven't read about my long walk, go do that now. It is the catalyst for this entry.

After I finished at my customer's office that Friday, I headed back to my hotel and called it an early night. The previous evening's stay at the hospital really wiped me out, I needed sleep, and I needed a lot of it. I had an early dinner and climbed into bed before 7 PM.

Rainbow Cleaners

The next morning I awoke feeling refreshed and grateful to be alive. I started the day out with a 20 minute run on the hotel elliptical machine, then dropped my laundry off at the Chinese Laundry, and called Tanya while having breakfast. I wanted to do something "touristy" for the day. While talking to Tanya I mentioned that I was thinking about taking a bike ride, and she told me that sounded like a great idea. She was, as usual, absolutely right.

After breakfast I stopped back at the hotel for a shower and change of clothes, then headed off towards Bike N Roll at the corner of Lombard & Columbus. It had been less than 24 hours since my release from the hospital, but the cardiologist had ruled out heart problems. I was still feeling some chest pain, but it went away with exercise. So I wasn't worried about dropping dead from a heart attack or anything like that. (I still don't know for certain what the problem is. My doctor has some suspicions, but we won't know until my test results come back.

Columbus Artwork

One of my favorite things about San Francisco has always been the walk along Columbus, from the Financial District up towards the bay. The walk skirts the edges of Chinatown, passes through Little Italy and North Beach, and finishes up at Bay Street near the Maritime Historic Park. There are all kinds of very cool shops, bookstores, restaurants and street art along the way.

Bike N Roll

After about 20 minutes I arrived at Bike N Roll, where I rented a bike (and helmet, air pump, etc.). They have a huge selection of all sorts of bikes, along with everything a beginner (like me), intermediate, or expert rider would need. The folks there helped me select an appropriate bike, adjusted the seat height, and explained the operation of the shifters, brakes, airpumps, etc. I then began what would turn out to be a 27 mile round trip. I started out by rolling down the hill towards Fisherman's Wharf. Once there I rode west along the bay, thoroughly enjoying myself.

The City from the weird point at San Francisco Maritime National Historic Park

At the western edge of San Francisco Maritime National Historic Park, at the edge of Van Ness Avenue, there is a weird sort of man made seawall that extends out into the bay. At the end of this extension is a large round point kind of platform. I rode out along this to the end of the point. The view of the bay, the city, and the Maritime museum from here is spectacular. Devin at the weird point at San Francisco Maritime National Historic Park I looked around for a placard or a sign or something that would identify what this was, but couldn't seem to find one. I'm sure that this thing has a real name, but I was unable to figure it out.

Pier at Fort Mason

I rode up McDowell Avenue towards Fort Mason. This was the first of the "what was I thinking" hills I would climb throughout the rest of the day. At the top of the hill is a dog park. I rested here for a while, took a few pictures of some dogs (a rather odd habit of mine, inspired by this website), and talked to Tanya on the cellphone. Then I followed Laguna Street to Marina Blvd, and rode west along Marina towards Chrissy Beach.

Happy dog at Chrissy Beach

When I arrived at Chrissy Beach I parked my bike, took off my sandals, and splashed about a bit in the water. It was freaky cold, but I didn't mind. While drying my feet I met this fellow. He was having a great time playing water fetch with his human.

Devin at the north end of the Golden Gate

After I finished drying off I hopped back on the bike and rode up the hill past Chrissy Field, then headed up another hill which took me to the entrance area for the Golden Gate Bridge. I realized I might not get another chance to do this, so I decided to ride across the Golden Gate. This may not seem like that big of a deal for those of you who have done this before or who ride a lot, but for me it was absolutely exhilarating.

While resting at the north end of the Golden Gate I met Rafael Giraldo, a middle school teacher from Florida who is spending his summer bicycling across America. We chatted for a while, took each other's photographs (if you watch the day one photos on his website, you'll see the one I took of him), and then rode back across the bridge. It was just as exhilarating for me this time as well.

Devin on top of a bunker at the Presidio

After completing my crossing, I cut in along Cranston and rode up to the old battery area of The Presidio. Another spectacular view, another moment to thank God for being alive. I headed on down Lincoln Blvd, brakes almost smoking, towards Seal Rocks State Beach. This was quite a hill to ride down, it is very easy to find yourself approaching ludicrous speed.

Beautiful view while heading towards Seal Beach

I connected up with Point Lobos Avenue, followed it as it curved south and became THE GREAT HIGHWAY, and meandered along there until I hit Lincoln Way where I turned into the Golden Gate Park at South Drive.

Very little is allowed at the Botanical Gardens

They close several of the roads in Golden Gate park to automobile traffic on the weekends, which makes bicycle riding there a wonderful experience. I cruised along and enjoyed the views, and even took a (walking, no bikes allowed) tour of the Botanical Gardens.

I rode past the Conservatory of Flowers and exited the park at Arguello Blvd, where I turned north. This hill kicked my butt. Climbing up out of the city back into the hills of the Presidio along Arguello Blvd is a rough ride even for the most seasoned cyclist. For a 280 pound fat man fresh out of the hospital it was absolute agony. I had to stop several times along the way just to breathe. Along the way I passed this church, whose simple, clean, elegant beauty absolutely amazed me.

Devin resting at the Presidio Scenic Overlook

Just after crossing Pacific Avenue, Arguello enters the south edge of the Presidio. I continued riding up and north until I finally came to a scenic view rest point, where I stopped for a good half hour to rest. I then continued down the hill into the old historic Presidio, where I stopped at the visitors center to check it out. It was pretty cool. After leaving there I headed north and east towards the Palace of the Fine Arts.

Riding from the Presidio to the Palace of the Fine Arts Devin at the Palace of the Fine Arts

The Palace of the Fine Arts was constructed for the 1915 Panama-Pacific Exposition. It is one of those very rare, very cool places to visit that tourists rarely find. Those that do find it are both awed and calmed by it's stately beauty and serene quiet. It is well worth the time and effort to seek it out.

Devin at the Palace of the Fine Arts (2)

I headed through the quiet neighborhoods near there towards Ggnra Yacht Harbor, where I stopped for lunch. (Nothing fancy, I grabbed a sandwich and a couple of bottles of water from a Safeway there). I then re-traced my route along the edge of the bay, up to the dog park at Fort Mason, and back down the hill next to the Maritime park.






It was while cruising along Beach Street that the stupidity monster caught up with me. Specifically, it was at the corner of Beach and Hyde. Those of you who are familiar with San Francisco will remember that the famous Lombard Street switchbacks begin at the corner of Hyde and Lombard. (Coincidentally, St. Francis Memorial Hospital is also on Hyde, at the corner of Hyde and Pine).

Perhaps it was the endorphins running through my system. Perhaps it was the sun beating through the vents of the bike helmet and onto my bald head. Perhaps it was the alignment of the sun and the moon. Whatever the reason, the idea of riding down Lombard popped into my head. And being more enthused than wise, I decided I would follow through with it.

Riding up Russian Hill (Hyde Street)

This of course meant that I needed to get to the corner of Lombard and Hyde. Which meant that I needed to ride up Hyde. Up....Russian....Hill... At first it was tiring. Then it became exhausting. Then it evolved into an agonizing torment of pain, sweat, and sharp breaths. My lungs were on fire. My thighs felt like they were being simultaneously stabbed with knives, beaten with crowbars, and stretched on a taffy pulling machine. My heart was pounding like a Taiko drummer on crystal meth. I couldn't get enough air. Every breath was like breathing through a bonfire and a hose at the same time. I looked back, and saw I had conquered almost 20 feet of this monster hill.
"This", I thought, "is going to suck."

Corner of Hyde and Lombard

I really don't know how I did it. I had to stop several times just to breathe. But through determination, stubbornness, or just plain stupidity I finally reached the top of the hill. I got off the bike and lay panting on the sidewalk for quite some time. I don't know how long I was there, but at some point a hippie-guy (how poetic) asked me "you OK dude"?
"Yes", I replied, "just happy to be alive." ' I got back on the bike, screwed up my courage, and proceeded across Hyde and down Lombard.

Nobody told me it was cobblestone.

I've stated before that I'm a pretty big guy. But let me take a moment and try to paint a picture for you. Imagine if you will, a 280 pound bald crazy person. This lunatic is sunburned, exhausted, sweaty and precariously perched atop a bicycle while wearing shorts and sandals. He is riding the bicycle down one of the curviest, steepest and most famous roads in America. There are cars in front of and behind him. The road is cobblestone (technically brick), and he is bouncing about, teeth chattering and bicycle shaking as he rides. People are pointing, laughing, and taking pictures. Mothers are shielding the eyes of their children from the visage of this crazed boom ba latty rattling down the hill. That lunatic was me.

Looking up Lombard street.

I managed to make it to the bottom without killing myself. I then rode the short distance back to Bike N Roll where I turned in the bicycle. I walked back to the cleaners where I picked up my laundry, then back to the hotel for a shower and change of clothes.

Dinner at the Stinking Rose

I took myself out to dinner at one of my very favorite restaurants, The Stinking Rose. If you've never eaten there, you really should give it a try. The food there is wonderful, unless you happen to be a vampire. All in all, a wonderful way to end a wonderful day.





If you're interested, I've posted a whole bunch of other photos on my Facebook.

A Warm Finish

Comments

Gravatar Image1 - You're one crazy guy, but you're my crazy guy!!

Gravatar Image2 - So, you did this the day AFTER Emoticon being in the hospital??? You are now Keiran's hero; that should terrify you! But you'd make a darned good writer!

Gravatar Image3 - Dude, that is AWESOME. I frikkin' love this post. You have captured what life is all about ..soaking in the world around us and just digging what is there to be found.

Re the heart thing ..many years ago I had chest pain that would go away with exercise. Lots of tests and then doc said it was some kind of mild infection - about the severity of a cold. After a week or so it was gone, never to return. That was over 30 years ago. Hope your experience is similar!

Gravatar Image4 - I grew up near San Fran. Haven't been there in years. Thanks for the walk, er, um, ride, down memory lane!! Emoticon

Gravatar Image5 - Two thumbs way up, brother.

Gravatar Image6 - Devin - great story, and very happy to see that you are ok.

Gravatar Image7 - Great story Dev! Loved it, shared it with the household. Emoticon Emoticon Emoticon Emoticon

Gravatar Image8 - omg i just saw this right now. (how did i miss it?)

dude. you really are a boom ba latty! whatever that is!!

LOLOL!!!!!!!!

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